Catherine - S/S18 / by Min Heo

    Introducing Catherine - our signature pumps for S/S18 Gisaengs collection.
    Catherine is named after Catherine Deneuve, the symbol of elegant sensuality and loveliness. Imagine her dreamy big eyes and hair tied up with a huge bow - With our signature toe shape and top line, Catherine is an 8-cm kitten heel with distinctive quilting and lacing details at the front.

 
db0413646b9f222f2fbbc9e3789aadf3--catherine-deneuve-catherine-ohara.jpg
 
60s_image_size_624_x.jpg
 

    The first Catherine was made with baby calf nubuck, but you can meet them in ivory sheepskin now. The combination of mud pink and ivory brings a feminine and vintage look.
    They can be worn with a pair of jeans, shorts or even with an evening dress, Pleiades shoes are quite free to style, you will find out :)!

 
  This is how Catherine was first designed ♥︎

This is how Catherine was first designed ♥︎

 

    Like all other shoes from our collection, Catherine does not torture your feet, thanks to the relaxed shape at the front, mid-heels and enough cushion in the insoles. Catherine represents the quirky, vintage loveliness of our S/S18 collection. I would wear them for any occasions - to work, to concerts, to parties etc. to add a special finish to my entire look -

 

    The idea of Catherine come from Gisaengs in Korean Empire - when the conservative Confucian country started open up the door for Western culture. While the costumes, architecture and popular culture were still preserving the traditional format, Western influences were evident. The way rooms were decorated, and how people dressed were very particular, distinctive characteristics of this era that did not last for a long time.

 
      A gisaeng girl wearing Western coat, gloves, and a fur scarf holding a little clutch.

    A gisaeng girl wearing Western coat, gloves, and a fur scarf holding a little clutch.

 
  Gisaeng girls painting orchids and writing poetries.

Gisaeng girls painting orchids and writing poetries.

 
      A gisaeng girl posed for photography. A pair of gloves are distinguishing, while the new hair style and a tiny top represent the era.

    A gisaeng girl posed for photography.
A pair of gloves are distinguishing, while the new hair style and a tiny top represent the era.

 
      A gisaeng girl ready for going out. The fastening of the top is Westernised - from tying up to buttons. The sun umbrella was a symbol of gisaengs back then.

    A gisaeng girl ready for going out.
The fastening of the top is Westernised - from tying up to buttons. The sun umbrella was a symbol of gisaengs back then.

 

    In order to create Catherine, a thorough research was done for old European lingerie. The concept was to describe a Gisaeng girl 'who was given a beautiful brasserie and a corset as a gift from a man - probably from Europe or just returned from a trip across the oceans'.

    Lacing details, ribbons, tapings and cutting of patterns were done to reflect such ideas.

 
   TANGO CORSET   - Cotton, Silk satin ribbon, Machine lace, Metal circumference / ca. 1914 France, for  Debenham & Freebody , London (V&A:T.64-1966) * Size  - waist: 67cm / hip: 88cm / Length front: 25cm / back: 33cm  Worn and given by Heather Firbank

TANGO CORSET - Cotton, Silk satin ribbon, Machine lace, Metal circumference / ca. 1914 France, for Debenham & Freebody, London (V&A:T.64-1966)
*Size - waist: 67cm / hip: 88cm / Length front: 25cm / back: 33cm
Worn and given by Heather Firbank

 
   COLETTE GIRDLE   - Elastic net and nylon, Satin elastic back panel, with Machine nylon lace and Cotton velvet / 1957-9 Britain (Leicestershire),  R. & W.H. Symington & Co. Ltd , under license from  Chistian Dior,  Paris (V&A:T. 140-2000) * Size - Underbust: 71cm / Waist: 67cm / Hip: 91cm / Length front: 46cm / Back: 50cm  Given by Caroline Wren

COLETTE GIRDLE - Elastic net and nylon, Satin elastic back panel, with Machine nylon lace and Cotton velvet / 1957-9 Britain (Leicestershire), R. & W.H. Symington & Co. Ltd, under license from Chistian Dior, Paris (V&A:T. 140-2000)
*Size- Underbust: 71cm / Waist: 67cm / Hip: 91cm / Length front: 46cm / Back: 50cm
Given by Caroline Wren

 
   CORSET   - Floral brocaded silk, Silk ribbon, Elastic / ca.1905, England. (Jill Fields,  "Fighting the Corsetless Evil: Shaping Corset and Culture, 1900-1930" , Journal of Social History 3, Winter 1999: 355)    CHEMISE   - White Cotton, Silk ribbon / ca. 1905, USA. ( "Dainty Lingerie",  Pictorial Review, February 1900: 11)

CORSET - Floral brocaded silk, Silk ribbon, Elastic / ca.1905, England. (Jill Fields, "Fighting the Corsetless Evil: Shaping Corset and Culture, 1900-1930", Journal of Social History 3, Winter 1999: 355)

CHEMISE - White Cotton, Silk ribbon / ca. 1905, USA. ("Dainty Lingerie", Pictorial Review, February 1900: 11)

 
      A page from the sketchbook, 'Oriental Sensuality (2016)'.

    A page from the sketchbook, 'Oriental Sensuality (2016)'.

 

    Now meet Catherine, the lady-like, sophisticated lady with a vintage touch.

 
03-1_Pleiades_34743_Final.jpg
 
03-4_Pleiades_34853_Final.jpg
 
IMG_0543.jpg